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 > problem with electric water heater-Fixed but new problem

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wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 02/16/20 03:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

#1 source of that problem you checked (The outside shower)
#2 is the winterizing bypass valves in a 3 valve system the CENTER valve must be closed. on a one valve system you need to make sure it is FULLY in "Summer" (use) ;position not mid way.

#3 is the thermostat.


Home is where I park it.
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fj12ryder

Platte City, MO

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Posted: 02/16/20 06:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mobeewan wrote:

bob213 wrote:

Element is easy to replace just make sure you buy the wrench to take it off.($5 or$6).

Watch this:
element


The video was good at showing the basics, but he didn't use any Teflon tape when installing the new element or reinstalling the anode plug. Nor did he clean the tank threads to remove the remnants of Teflon tape.

After he reconnected the leads for the heating element he should have refilled the water heater and turned on the element to test it and make sure it was going to heat and the element threads were not going to leak.

You never know for sure if the element threads or the anode plug threads are going to leak until the tank and the water are heated up. He put the cover back on the element access so he would never know it was leaking unless he found the floor was getting wet under the water heater.

After the element is successfully tested and there is no leakage then he should have continued to reinstall the element cover and the gas burner tube.

I'll give the video a B minus.
Thread sealant isn't necessary on the threads for the heating element, since they don't do any sealing. The rubber gasket is what seals the heating element, the threads are regular SAE, not NPT.

A little sealant on the anode rod can't hurt though.


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Michelle.S

Western NY till fall, then Sebring, FL

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Posted: 02/16/20 06:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just recently went through this, water just wasn't as hot as usual and over the next few days even less so. Ordered and replaced the AC T-stat and now nice hot water on AC.


2018 Chevy 3500HD High Country Crew Cab DRW, D/A, 2016 Redwood 39MB, Dual AC, Fireplace, Sleep #Bed, Auto Sat Dish, Stack Washer/Dryer, Auto Level Sys, Disk Brakes, Onan Gen, 17.5" "H" tires, MORryde Pin & IS, Comfort Ride, Dual Awnings, Full Body Paint

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 02/16/20 06:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rbp111 wrote:

I do think it must the heating element. It is under an extended warranty. So they can fix it at no cost to me.
Also, I did check the bypass valve. It was not leaking. The gas comes on when I throw the switch, and heats up the water nice and hot.

By the way, I appreciate the video submitted by bob on how to take off the heating element. It is real easy and the guy who made the video aught to be commended.


If the water comes out nice and hot on gas as you say; Then yes you have found the problem as the electric element.

The question I would ask if I were you is how much fuel will it take to pull the trailer round trip to the dealer? Sure it's under an extended warranty. But if you have to spend $30 in fuel to have the dealer replace a nine dollar part, under warranty is it even worth it? Add in the six dollar wrench and you are still at $15 and you didn't have to drive the RV anywhere.


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wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 02/17/20 05:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IF the water is getting warmer than room temp.. The Element is likely good.
That is why I did not include it in my suspect list.

Cobra21

minnesota

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Posted: 02/17/20 06:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BB_TX wrote:

Heating elements are normally either good or they are bad. Can’t think of a way one could partially fail. They are basically a specialized resistor.

If you don’t have a valve problem allowing mixing of hot and cold, then I would question the thermostat/hi temp cutout.


I would also question the thermostat. Normally the element should be either good or bad.
Brian

drsteve

Michigan

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Posted: 02/17/20 08:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

opnspaces wrote:



The question I would ask if I were you is how much fuel will it take to pull the trailer round trip to the dealer? Sure it's under an extended warranty. But if you have to spend $30 in fuel to have the dealer replace a nine dollar part, under warranty is it even worth it? Add in the six dollar wrench and you are still at $15 and you didn't have to drive the RV anywhere.


I'd call the dealer and see if they would send a new element.


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bob213

Fresno, CA

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Posted: 02/17/20 10:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you pressed the reset on the thermostat? Suburban has separate thermostats for gas and electric so gas could work fine while electric hi limit t-stat could need reset or replaced. Check for continuity(and power) at screws on element before removing. Hope this answer gets a passing grade.


You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand


kellem

Shenandoah valley,VA

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Posted: 02/17/20 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BB_TX wrote:

Heating elements are normally either good or they are bad. Can’t think of a way one could partially fail. They are basically a specialized resistor.

If you don’t have a valve problem allowing mixing of hot and cold, then I would question the thermostat/hi temp cutout.


My thoughts as well.

I'm also betting an open bypass valve at the WH.....fixed a many at campgrounds.

doxiemom11

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Posted: 02/17/20 04:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Needs a new heating element. Probably caked with lime and crud so it's can't heat efficiently anymore. They are pretty cheap. Will cost an arm and a leg at the dealer if they fix it.

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