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FULL-THROTTLE

Feeding Hills

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Joined: 03/21/2020

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Posted: 03/22/20 11:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First of all I want to say thank you all for your input, I did remover the battery a second time and it shows 30% full, and when it was in the rv and not in use, (120v house fed extension cord), the master key was off. SSOOOO it has to be the battery. The rv dealership is limited on staff due to this **** virus, Im not sure I want to go into their building till things settle down. I will keep you updated.

Thanks Again,

Fran

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 03/22/20 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Best time to get it fixed is when they’re slow.
Call them, tell them the battery is junk, drop off RV. Pick it up later. Don’t have to go hug them or anything.
Better yet drop off the battery and have them put a new one in the back of your truck. Don’t even have to roll down your windows...


"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.

FULL-THROTTLE

Feeding Hills

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Posted: 03/22/20 12:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am thinking of putting two 800cca optima rv batteries wired in parallel, does any one else do this?

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 03/22/20 04:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, FIrst the battery disconnect is not in the disconnected position.
How do I know this:
"I put the jumper cables to the battery from the truck and everything works"

Converter may be non-working.. Battery may be "Flat" (unable to take a charge)

Adapter to house power may be. iffy.

Now as for the "Everything works with jumper cables on battery"

Trailers have two power systems (motor homes have a 3rd but we will ignore that for the most part) some have an additional power system (Both MH and Trailers) I will cover that.

The first system is the 12 volt system.. This runs all the Lights, Fans, Water pump, Furnace, Slides, steps if they are electric, Jacks if they are electric, it also provides CONTROL power for the Fridge, Water heater and optionally air conditioners (if wall mounted T-stat for sure it provides).

120 volt system Air Conditioner, Operational power for water heater, Fridge (on electric in both cases) and the converter (charges battery provides 12 v when on shore power) appearances are this is NOT working more on that later.

MH only. 12 volt chassis system.. or in your case the battery in your Truck.

optional inverter.. This is a device that makes 120 volt out of 12 volt (the "inverse" of what the Converter does) This may run the microwave and it may need 12 volt battery power to operate the internal control comnputer as well.

So Here are some testing methods.. DO you have TWO A/Cs.. If so turn both to FAN only Do both work when plugged into the house or does just one work.

IF only one.. your problem is the adapter. get a new one (Hey I've seen em happen)

IF both work check all the 120 volt breakers is there one marked CONV or Converter.. That's the prime suspect Cycle it off and on.

The converter has fuses.. they may be blown They are called Reverse Polarity fuses for good reason You will need to find the converter UNLESS it is part of the power distribution panel.. if so look for 30 amp fuses (often far right) if more than one both may be blown and need to be replaced at the same time UNPLUGGED

Finally I have found many RVers have a few screws loose... A #2 Square bit often works well to tighten them.. Start by UNPLUGING and taking a flashlight into the RV and then check each and every screw in the breaker box.

(You thought perhaps my Screws loose was a different type of screw.. nope. Head properly attached. It is the "Oh I would never RV" folks that have that issue [emoticon])

Good luck and PLEASE let us know what you find.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


bikendan

Camano Island, Wash.

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Posted: 03/22/20 10:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FULL-THROTTLE wrote:

I am thinking of putting two 800cca optima rv batteries wired in parallel, does any one else do this?


Anything with a CCA rating, is not the best choice for a towable.
CCA ratings are for starting an engine, towables don't have engines so a CCA ratings is useless.
Get a true deep cycle battery, like a pair of 6v golf cart batteries in series.


Dan- Firefighter, Retired">, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur">, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP">), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes


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