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 > Battery time. 6V?

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crosscheck

Coldstream, BC

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Posted: 04/03/20 12:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NRALIFR wrote:

In the RV world, the idea that 6V batteries are always the way to go, for everyone, every time, is a myth as persistent as never letting a battery sit on concrete.

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I have observed RVers posts over the years on what are the best batteries and everyone has their own opinions on which batteries are the best for their situations, but I have never heard about this "myth" regarding 6V batteries, just honest, real life experiences from RVers.

38 years ago we purchased a 1978 Vanguard 8' TC which had an ice box, hand pumped fresh water system, manual lit HWT and manual lit furnace and 3 small lights all receiving power from a 12 V battery in the truck. Made due electrically as long as we did not use the furnace much(warm weather camping).

Fast forward, we had a TC with 4x6V AGM's and presently a TT with 4x6V GC2's. Power requirements have changed over the years meaning that with the large increase in daily AH required, batteries have become a lot more relied upon in every day RV life. In our case we need batteries that can be drawn down a fair bit every day(we dry camp 95%) and charged back up to close to 100% with out having to be replaced every few years. Also, it would be nice if they were not too heavy and didn't break the bank.

On the advice of many on this site, 6V GC2's were the popular choice but not the only choice.

Your choice and number of batteries has a lot to do with your camping style(dry camping or power pole princess), battery location, (AGM required inside?) and budget(Lithium$$$).

Dave


2016 F350 Diesel 4X4 CC SRW SB,
2016 Creekside 23RKS, 490W solar, 2000W Xantrex Freedom 2012 inverter, 4 6V GC-2 (450AH)
2006 F350 CC 4X4 sold
2011 Outfitter 9.5' sold
Some Of Our Fun:http://daveincoldstream.blogspot.ca/

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 04/03/20 02:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We’re actually in agreement Dave. You’re right, it depends on a lot of factors. One you didn’t mention was space. Some TC’s can’t accommodate the height of GC2’s in the battery compartment.

If you can only accommodate 2 batteries, you should at least consider if you can accommodate 2 group 31’s. If you choose the right batteries, you could end up with a few more amp-hours available with 2 group 31’s vs 2 GC2’s. Now, if your TC was designed to use 6 volt batteries, and if you have the room for four of them, that’s probably the best battery for you.

Two 12 volt batteries are also able to discharge at a higher rate than 2 6 volt batteries due to double the number of cells. That may be important to you if your planning on using an inverter to power a high wattage load, like a microwave. If your power needs don’t include microwave use, then that might not be a factor for you.

Personally, I always look at the available battery storage space, and then decide what voltage and form-factor battery will put the most useable amp hours in that space. I also prefer to not have to mess with flooded batteries, so I prefer AGM’s.

Lifepo is still to expensive for me to consider, but if it weren’t, they would be the clear amp-hour per cu/ft winner.

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2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450


NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 04/03/20 02:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Almost forgot, Kayteg.....
There is (was?) a common “old wives tale” that if you left a battery sitting on a concrete floor it would ruin it. That hasn’t been true since battery cases started being made of plastic, rather than hard rubber.

Do Cement Floors Ruin Car Batteries?

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rickjo

SW New Mexico

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Posted: 04/03/20 06:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was able to lower the tray enough to use 6v golf cart batteries. Have lasted so much longer than 12v whatever cycle. Advice from an Interstate dealer with his own RV.

Rick


2019 F-350 4WD Crew Cab DRW (6500 lbs cargo capacity!)
2007 LanceMax 1181 loaded, King memory foam mattress (driver's side locker omitted).
"Leave the trail a little better than you found it."


jimh425

Western MT

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Posted: 04/03/20 07:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rickjo wrote:

Have lasted so much longer than 12v whatever cycle.


What batteries did you replace last, how long did they last, how much did they cost, and what did you replace them with, how long did they last, and how much did those cost?

I can only fit Group 24s in my compartment. I’ve used Interstate, Sears, and now have NAPAs. The NAPAs are still going, but the other two sets lasted 5 and 6 years respectively. All were lead acid batteries.


'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 Dbl Slide, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Air Bags, Hankook DH-01 225/19.5 Fs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.


Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 04/03/20 10:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So I went with 6v for longevity and deep discharge ability. Doesn't hurt that even these reduced size batteries still kick out 200ah, so same capacity as good group 27's.
Discharge rate isn't an issue unless your inverter is trying to kick start an air conditioner and Max charge rate is 54a on these.
Size wise, these are the smallest 200ah or greater I could find. Most GC batteries are over 10" tall, these are less than 9" tall with flush posts. And 12" long, many are longer. Fit perfect with no slop in my battery tray with about an inch of overhead clearance. GC batteries wouldn't fit in my battery compartment without removing the sliding tray.
And they're AGM.


"Yes Sir, Oct 10 1888, Those poor school children froze to death in their tracks. They did not even find them until Spring. Especially hard hit were the ones who had to trek uphill to school both ways, with no shoes." -Bert A.

rickjo

SW New Mexico

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Posted: 04/04/20 07:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jimh425 wrote:

rickjo wrote:

Have lasted so much longer than 12v whatever cycle.


What batteries did you replace last, how long did they last, how much did they cost, and what did you replace them with, how long did they last, and how much did those cost?

I can only fit Group 24s in my compartment. I’ve used Interstate, Sears, and now have NAPAs. The NAPAs are still going, but the other two sets lasted 5 and 6 years respectively. All were lead acid batteries.


New camper in November 2006. Original batts lasted about 3 seasons. Replaced with 12v similar to originals and lasted to about 2013. As I said, Interstate dealer in my town suggested 6v golf cart batts (MUCH larger plates) but they were a bit too tall. So I was able to lower battery tray and go back for the install. I have had those ever since.I generally try to keep them above 11.5 v when camping. No solar, so I use the genset for multiple day camp sites. I set up my new truck to charge from the alternator and it works well when driving. I have a Blue Sea Systems Automatic Charging Relay # 7610. Since it is bidirectional, I can charge the truck with the genset as well (never had an emergency though). When home, I plug the camper into 110v and the on-board battery minder does a wonderful job of battery maintenance. It even charges the truck batt when loaded thanks to Blue Sea. Some Forest Service campgrounds now have electric sites which is a bonus for us.

I don't have old data on cost. 2013 after all. I am sure they were more than replacement 12v but clearly it has been worth it given the extended lifetime that I have experienced. Those prices would now be out-of-date anyway. An interstate dealer, or any brand that does golf cart batts, could supply current prices.

It is mostly determining if you can accommodate the height.

Rick

Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 04/04/20 09:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^Which is why I bought the Mighty Max ( there are other same size different branded).
It is only 200ah vs 225-240 of true GC batteries but same advantages as GCs and just as much power as 2 group 27s.
Cost, $190-200 ea for Agm vs good group 27s flooded which are $150-180 and 27 AGMs which are $250-350.

Unless they don’t last, they hit the sweet spot for compact size, storage capacity, Agm and price. And it don’t cost anything to switch over. (I did have to build a jumper wire as the ones from the 12V setup were a bit too short.)
Only a 1 year warranty, but 10 year design life.

Hemi Joel

Minnesota

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Posted: 04/04/20 10:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My theory on rv batteries is get the cheap ones and don't worry about them. Then I can spend my vacation time enjoying the trip, and not fretting about preserving several hundred dollars worth of batteries. The 6 volt deep cycles from sams club were about $75-80 each last time. They were used and abused and 3 years old in my Arctic Fox when I sold it and still working fine.


2018 Eagle Cap 1163 triple slide on a 93 Dodge D350 Cummins, DTT 89 torque converter, big turbo, 3 extra main leafs, Rancho 9000s rear, Monroe gas magnums front, upper overloads removed, home made stableloads, bags.


Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 04/04/20 12:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^ Thats a good deal. But there’s no worry about maintaining them if you’re set up right.
Which is the same way to be setup regardless of how much the battery costs

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