Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Towing: Prodigy Brake Control ?
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 > Prodigy Brake Control ?

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RCMAN46

NorthWest

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Posted: 04/21/20 10:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Simply unplug P2 from wiring harness and plug in P3, simple as that!!!"

Unfortunately not entirely true. The P3 uses a different mounting bracket than the P2 but changing the brackets should not be very difficult.

The P3 has better diagnostics than the P2. I like the current reading the P3 gives you. If you have the standard electric brakes as most of us have the current delivered with most 4 wheel brakes systems is 1 amp for each volt applied. From this a broken wheel magnet wire can be detected.

I check my current reading vs voltage with the manual lever before my trips each morning along with all of my TPMS readings.

Bipeflier

Centralia, MO

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Posted: 04/24/20 10:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your problem is in the work trailer, NOT THE CONTROLER.


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carringb

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Posted: 04/24/20 10:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also found the P3 to be less sensitive to minor faults, and also a little smarter with the Boost feature. It's a worthwhile upgrade.

That said... Make sure the back of the connector on the truck isn't full of crud. If it is, and it's wet, that can pass enough current between the contacts to cause intermittent faults.


Bryan

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blt2ski

Kirkland, Wa

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Posted: 04/24/20 11:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agreeing with those that think it is the trailer issue, not prodigy issue.
I've had and owned multiple trailers in the past. If one is working, next is not, 99%of the time, the trailer connection is usually the issue. Dirt grime or equal on trailer plug us usually issue. Sometimes the wire connections in plug.......check the trailer first.

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mike-uswest

Central Point, OR, USA

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Posted: 04/24/20 05:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I checked the wires in the work trailer plug, and everything looked good. The hookup end of the plug was not looking as clean, so I will flush it out and dry it well. More things to play with. Thanks.

Mike


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deltabravo

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Posted: 04/30/20 07:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

If your RV trailer works, the controller works. I think you have a problem with the construction trailer.


Ditto.

You've already troubleshot the problem by testing the brake controller with another trailer, the TT, so that rules out the problem being the brake controller, so the problem is the construction trailer.


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time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 04/30/20 10:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mike-uswest wrote:

I checked the wires in the work trailer plug, and everything looked good. The hookup end of the plug was not looking as clean, so I will flush it out and dry it well. More things to play with. Thanks.

Mike
Get out your clamp-on DC ammeter and verify each wheel is getting 3 amps when the controller is applied manually.
(any excuse to get a new tool)


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CharlesinGA

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Posted: 05/02/20 08:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

P3 has memory for four trailers, max brake level, number if axkes, etc, so you can get a trailer set up, save the info and not have to go thru that on the trailer later on if you are switching back and forth.

Charles

jerem0621

Tennessee

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Posted: 05/06/20 02:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a P2 on my last TV. It was okay. Not a bad controller at all. I’m really a Tekonsha Voyager fan. I like how the Voyager works much better and once set up it’s much smoother and more simple than any other controller I have owned. I just bought another Voyager for my latest TV and it works great with our new TT. After thousands of miles I like the simple little light telling me what’s going on.

Thanks!

Jeremiah


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Tekonsha Voyager brake controller (Great Brake Controller)

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