Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Leveling Blocks vs jack pads
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 > Leveling Blocks vs jack pads

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spoon059

Just north of D.C.

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Posted: 05/17/20 03:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why 2x10? I use 2x8 for tires and 4x6 for jacks. Not much benefit from huge oversized pieces, plus they weigh more and take up more space.


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Edd505

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Posted: 05/17/20 09:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Guess I'm the odd one, been using stacks of Lego blocks for years without an issue. If this is your 1st one with levelers (hint[emoticon] the less leg extended the more stable inside.


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dodge guy

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Posted: 05/17/20 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use PT'd wood. I cut some 2X12's for the jacks and some 2X12's for the tires. I've only had to use them once for muddy ground. May not need them but once a year, but they are good to have. The plastic ones will break under weight on soft ground.


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JIMNLIN

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Posted: 05/18/20 06:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We started camping with truck campers in the late '60s and '70s. Back then COE camp grounds on our many COE lakes were a dirt road winding between the trees with picnic tables scattered around. Nothing was level or even flat.
To get level we may have to dig down one side, or end down, and block up the other end or side maybe a foot. No gravel or concrete or asphalt campsites or pads.
So I still carry a big assortment of blocks/ramps/pads for any event.
My ramps and blocks were made from cedar garage door header drop offs 3.5" X 30" with one end angled off for a ramp. Several 2"X 8" by various lengths along with a assortment of blocks made from 4" X 6" barn posts. Sometimes its necessary to use a bigger block under the end of my ramp to get level.

My cedar ramps/blocks in the camper and in the trailer sheds I made in '72/'73 era. I had a neighbor who framed houses and also camped kept us supplied with job site waste.


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deltabravo

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Posted: 05/18/20 06:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Need something solid. The block in you link are like a great big cookie cutter and will sink into soft ground.


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fj12ryder

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Posted: 05/18/20 07:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Edd505 wrote:

Guess I'm the odd one, been using stacks of Lego blocks for years without an issue. If this is your 1st one with levelers (hint[emoticon] the less leg extended the more stable inside.
Nah, I use the plastic blocks too. Not the orange ones though, the yellow Camco blocks, and they will work for the stabilizers if you use at least three of them. Use just one and they will crack/break.


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garmp

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Posted: 05/18/20 10:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Nice job but to make a constructive comment the 3/4" holes in the plywood should have been in the 2x10 and then the holes would not be visible!


Problem with that is if the braided twine were to need replacement you couldn't do it with the plywood being glued down. And to drill through the plywood in the same exact spot(s) would be impossible. Besides then you'd have what I have now.


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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 05/18/20 11:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

garmp wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Nice job but to make a constructive comment the 3/4" holes in the plywood should have been in the 2x10 and then the holes would not be visible!


Problem with that is if the braided twine were to need replacement you couldn't do it with the plywood being glued down. And to drill through the plywood in the same exact spot(s) would be impossible. Besides then you'd have what I have now.


If you ever needed to replace NYLON lines it would be a cold day in HE!!.

Still nice job!


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garmp

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Posted: 05/18/20 11:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for your advice. If I have to do it again I will keep that in mind. But knowing me & my luck I generally try to prepare for the worse case scenario. Warm weather or not.

down home

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Posted: 05/18/20 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our coach parked in Kingman, Az, right now. Put down sections of 2x12 under jacks.
Well. it looks dry and is dry on the surface. 2 ft down is hard pan and water flowing over it. The 2x12's cracked and the whole shebang sunk a foot. Moved and put long 6' sections of 6x6 across the back under both jacks and across and under the rear jacks and long 6x6s sank.
A while back one of many postings on jack pads noted that those leveling blocks will bend and crack and break and sink on even much harder surfaces.
There is two or three mfgs who make pads for those big cranes etc that also make smaller ones, thick heavy rubber and tough urethane and other material pads.
Not cheap and not light. I've about decided on about two layers of glued and screwed treated 1" plywood about two feet or more across and as long that will between the tires...might not sink or break even on soupy ground. Don't know how I would lift it or manuever it....maybe lots of workouts after they fix my back, or maybe adopt a 14 year old body builder..

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