Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Refrigerator cooling question
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STBRetired

I-80 and I-55

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Posted: 06/04/20 03:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have 2 fans installed in my roof vent to pull out hot air from the fridge. They have a 145 degree bimetal thermostat that turns them on and off. Newmar installed the fridge correctly so they only come on when it is 90+ degrees and sunny outside. If I turn the fridge all the way up, it freezes things on the top shelf.


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pulpwood007

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Posted: 06/04/20 04:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MitchF150:

Great looking install! Please tell me about the fan control with temp sensor. Did you purchase this as a unit or did you make it? What are the specs on your fans?

It looks like this is in your top vent so I assume it is pulling air over the coils and out. That was the way I had mine rigged on previous trailer except I had a top vent in roof of trailer. My new trailer is like yours, side vents only top and bottom.

What is the pool noodle for, and do you really like your beer cold?

wa8yxm

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Posted: 06/04/20 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I let mine run all the time (Dometic) though I could do it either way. One of the advantages is the fins do not frost up as much with the fans bowing.. I noticed that long ago when I used a couple of comptuer fans.

I need to add one of the computer fans back. (The kit I bought was not long ehough to cover all the fins)


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MitchF150

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Posted: 06/04/20 04:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi pulpwood. It's a kit. Got it on Amazon. Cost a bit ($90) It's the 140mm size of fans, but totally plug and play with all the controls and hardware. It's in the top vent area. The reason for the noodle on the top is that the upper 'panel' that angles up from the back is just set there by gravity and I could not screw in the upper brackets, so I used a noodle to keep it from vibrating and some duct tape to hold it in place (hence, why it's a total HACK install! [emoticon] ) I know I could have re-engineered it all, but just wanted it installed!

It's mounted with screws on the base and works just fine... It's whisper quiet even on full power. You can feel the heat being pushed out thru the vent by just putting your hand up there when it's running.

[image]

It really made a difference in the cooling of the fridge. And yes, cold beer is a must! Plus, it keeps the rest of the fridge cold too.. [emoticon]

Mitch


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pulpwood007

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Posted: 06/04/20 05:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mitch,

Looks good. I like the kit, however just found a nice 12vdc controller with temp sensor on Amazon that's cheap. It simply turns on/off fans based on the temp range you set. By going with a stand alone controller like this I could use muffin fans or squirrel cage blowers and get the specs I want.

Exactly where did you place the sensor for your controller?

I also just found a system called the Fridge Defend by ARP that actually controls the fridge if it gets too hot, as well as fans, but it's a lot more expensive than a DIY fan system.

Chip

STBRetired

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Posted: 06/04/20 05:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot. Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold, but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.

MitchF150

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Posted: 06/04/20 06:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The sensor is just a wire that feeds up with the other wiring to the fans. I just let it hang from one of the upper brackets in the open area.

The main controller is in the lower section and mounted to the "wall" with stick on velcro and I just hit the power button. Set the fan speed and hit the "Auto" button and let it do it's thing.

Thanks! Mitch

dougrainer

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Posted: 06/04/20 07:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot. Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold, but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.


The ARP does shut the refer down when it gets too hot. But, that is NOT its only function. What it does is monitor the flue temp. When you park off level or have lack of ventilation, the flue WILL get hotter than normal but will not burn up the RV. The ARP senses that rise in temp caused by Cooling Unit destroying off level operation and shuts down the refer. When you get level again and the CU flue has cooled down the refer starts cooling again. This is the BEST aftermarket item you can install in an RV refer to prevent future problems and not have to worry about off level operation as it monitors it for you. Doug

PS. what burns down an RV is NOT a overheating cooling unit. What burns them up is a LEAK in the cooling unit and the LP flame "may" ignite the Ammonia. Also a dirty LP burner will cause a flame flash and ignite areas around the Cabinet and cause a fire.

pulpwood007

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Posted: 06/05/20 08:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

STBRetired wrote:

The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot. Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold, but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.




PS. what burns down an RV is NOT a overheating cooling unit. What burns them up is a LEAK in the cooling unit and the LP flame "may" ignite the Ammonia. Also a dirty LP burner will cause a flame flash and ignite areas around the Cabinet and cause a fire.


So the ARP unit will not necessarily guard against fires in the refer, only against overheating in the flu. If I remember correctly the advertisement eludes to the fact it will prevent RV refer fires.

How frequent does an ammonia leak occur in a propane refrigerator that is not of advanced age?

dougrainer

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Posted: 06/05/20 10:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pulpwood007 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

STBRetired wrote:

The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot. Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold, but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.




PS. what burns down an RV is NOT a overheating cooling unit. What burns them up is a LEAK in the cooling unit and the LP flame "may" ignite the Ammonia. Also a dirty LP burner will cause a flame flash and ignite areas around the Cabinet and cause a fire.


So the ARP unit will not necessarily guard against fires in the refer, only against overheating in the flu. If I remember correctly the advertisement eludes to the fact it will prevent RV refer fires.

How frequent does an ammonia leak occur in a propane refrigerator that is not of advanced age?


It prevents RV fires by shutting the refer down when the ammonia leaks out and/or the flue gets too hot. RV refers for the past 20 years have a flame and temp disc built in and if there is a flame shuts the power to the refer. NOT the best, but it is installed by Norcold and Dometic. Now, I am not an expert on the ARP. Their manuals will state what how they prevent fires. Doug

From ARP

The Fridge Defend monitors the cooling unit "normal" boiler temperatures. The cooling unit boiler of your Dometic or Norcold will run at constant normal temperature as long as the cooling unit is preforming in a safe manner (see link above). When the cooling unit boiler temperatures rise above the "normal" temperatures, damage to the cooling unit results. Cooling unit damage can lead to premature cooling failure or even worse, the cooling unit boiler can crack due to excessive thermal stress and cause the fluids to leak externally resulting in an RV fire.
Here is a partial list of reasons that your RV fridge can overheat, neither Dometic nor Norcold controls address any of these issues:

Parking Off-Level
Driving Up/Down Steep Grades
Failure of Electric or LP Gas Heater
Cooling Unit Fluids Blockage or Internal Failure
Wind Preventing Air Circulation in Cooling Unit Compartment
Freezing Ambient Temperatures.
Ambient Temperatures Over 100 Degrees F.

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