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wolfe10

Texas

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Joined: 10/08/2000

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Posted: 06/05/20 11:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In order to get the most accurate information on the ARP controller, I e-mailed the engineer who designed/manufacturers it. Here is his e-mail back to me. His answers in bold:


The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot.

This is correct.

Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold,

This is incorrect, the boiler overheats because it is no longer producing refrigerant. Restated, ammonia is the refrigerant, and when it does not get back to the boiler to drive the system, the heat of the boiler actually heats your beer in the fridge.


but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.

This is incorrect, the ARP (aka Fridge Defend) boiler sensor goes on the boiler when one installs according to the instructions.

PS. what burns down an RV is NOT a overheating cooling unit.

This statement is totally inaccurate, it is the destruction of the corrosion inhibitor that results in a leak. The corrosion inhibitor is what protects the cooling unit from a leak, and overheating of the boiler is what destroys the corrosion inhibitor.

What burns them up is a LEAK in the cooling unit and the LP flame "may" ignite the Ammonia.

This is also totally inaccurate, most absorption fires happen at around 2am to 4am in the morning when on shore power.

Also a dirty LP burner will cause a flame flash and ignite areas around the Cabinet and cause a fire.
______________________________________________________________________

So the ARP unit will not necessarily guard against fires in the refer, only against overheating in the flu.

This is not true, the ARP boiler sensor is mounted to the boiler tube, not the flue tube.


Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Joined: 06/11/2007

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Posted: 06/05/20 04:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wolfe10 wrote:

In order to get the most accurate information on the ARP controller, I e-mailed the engineer who designed/manufacturers it. Here is his e-mail back to me. His answers in bold:


The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot.

This is correct.

Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold,

This is incorrect, the boiler overheats because it is no longer producing refrigerant. Restated, ammonia is the refrigerant, and when it does not get back to the boiler to drive the system, the heat of the boiler actually heats your beer in the fridge.


but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.

This is incorrect, the ARP (aka Fridge Defend) boiler sensor goes on the boiler when one installs according to the instructions.

PS. what burns down an RV is NOT a overheating cooling unit.

This statement is totally inaccurate, it is the destruction of the corrosion inhibitor that results in a leak. The corrosion inhibitor is what protects the cooling unit from a leak, and overheating of the boiler is what destroys the corrosion inhibitor.

What burns them up is a LEAK in the cooling unit and the LP flame "may" ignite the Ammonia.

This is also totally inaccurate, most absorption fires happen at around 2am to 4am in the morning when on shore power.

Also a dirty LP burner will cause a flame flash and ignite areas around the Cabinet and cause a fire.
______________________________________________________________________

So the ARP unit will not necessarily guard against fires in the refer, only against overheating in the flu.

This is not true, the ARP boiler sensor is mounted to the boiler tube, not the flue tube.


WRONG WRONG WRONG on most points.
1. An overheated Cooling unit does NOT catch fire and burn. It DESTROYS the CU but does not leak. Can leak but rarely
2. I state flue which is welded to the BOILER tube. Sorry, but just a mistake in term.
3. WHERE do you get the info on 2 am to 4 am???????????????? What would THAT time have anything to do about the failure of a CU(leaker). NOT A THING.
4. I will back my statements after 41 years as an RV tech. Doug

pulpwood007

Hemphill, TX

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Joined: 05/25/2020

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Posted: 06/05/20 09:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

wolfe10 wrote:

In order to get the most accurate information on the ARP controller, I e-mailed the engineer who designed/manufacturers it. Here is his e-mail back to me. His answers in bold:


The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot.

This is correct.

Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold,

This is incorrect, the boiler overheats because it is no longer producing refrigerant. Restated, ammonia is the refrigerant, and when it does not get back to the boiler to drive the system, the heat of the boiler actually heats your beer in the fridge.


but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.

This is incorrect, the ARP (aka Fridge Defend) boiler sensor goes on the boiler when one installs according to the instructions.

PS. what burns down an RV is NOT a overheating cooling unit.

This statement is totally inaccurate, it is the destruction of the corrosion inhibitor that results in a leak. The corrosion inhibitor is what protects the cooling unit from a leak, and overheating of the boiler is what destroys the corrosion inhibitor.

What burns them up is a LEAK in the cooling unit and the LP flame "may" ignite the Ammonia.

This is also totally inaccurate, most absorption fires happen at around 2am to 4am in the morning when on shore power.

Also a dirty LP burner will cause a flame flash and ignite areas around the Cabinet and cause a fire.
______________________________________________________________________

So the ARP unit will not necessarily guard against fires in the refer, only against overheating in the flu.

This is not true, the ARP boiler sensor is mounted to the boiler tube, not the flue tube.


WRONG WRONG WRONG on most points.
1. An overheated Cooling unit does NOT catch fire and burn. It DESTROYS the CU but does not leak. Can leak but rarely
2. I state flue which is welded to the BOILER tube. Sorry, but just a mistake in term.
3. WHERE do you get the info on 2 am to 4 am???????????????? What would THAT time have anything to do about the failure of a CU(leaker). NOT A THING.
4. I will back my statements after 41 years as an RV tech. Doug


Doug, in your previous post you sounded like you were favorable to the ARP unit. It almost sound like you and the ARP company are saying the same thing when it comes to the leaking ammonia causing the fire. He states "it is the destruction of the corrosion inhibitor that results in a leak". This apparently results from the boiler getting too hot. So either way the leaking ammonia is the cause.

I appreciate your opinion. Regardless of the possibility of fire, and how it originates, it sounds like cutting power to a hot cooling unit may have several benefits.

I know there may be some difference of opinions here but this is really interesting hearing how these RV fridges work, as well as how they malfunction. Thanks for your input.

Chip

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