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guidry

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Posted: 06/16/20 05:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m in the category of “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”. I take off my wheels every year and make sure the nut is tight. They’re packed with good grease so I don’t repack. These trailers aren’t like my boat trailer where it’s submerged every day. I don’t think RVs need repacking every year or two. But that’s me. Cars don’t get repacked often if at all. I’ve never had or seen a problem as long as you’re inspecting the wheel bearings. There’s been a few times the nut needed a little tightening.

JIMNLIN

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Posted: 06/16/20 05:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Each spring I pull the hubs and check the bearings/seals but more importantly check the brake components. I do this one wheel t a time.
With labor costs per hour now days thats not a bad price at all.


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phillyg

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Posted: 06/16/20 07:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CarnationSailor wrote:

phillyg wrote:

Okay, thanks all. I guess I haven't been keeping up with the times because I've done this work myself for so many years.


I still think $375 for labor-only is high. You're going to pay at least another $125 for parts and sales tax. I would check around some more.


I got three quotes between $360 and $400 so that appears the going rate for labor around here. Unless there's something wrong with the brakes, the only parts needed would be the rear seals, yes?


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CarnationSailor

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Posted: 06/16/20 08:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, about $20 per wheel.


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MrRetired821

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Posted: 06/16/20 08:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Had my mobile RV repair guy come and do mine. Charged $350.00. Took him about 3 hours. (Dual axles)


Smokey&Bobbye

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Posted: 06/16/20 09:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cheap Chinese seal and some grease is all there is for materials, maybe $7 per hub.

If they clean ALL the old grease out of the bearings and races YES it will take more time.

Tell them to put US Made seals on and use high quality synthetic grease.


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Huntindog

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Posted: 06/17/20 03:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

guidry wrote:

I’m in the category of “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”. I take off my wheels every year and make sure the nut is tight. They’re packed with good grease so I don’t repack. These trailers aren’t like my boat trailer where it’s submerged every day. I don’t think RVs need repacking every year or two. But that’s me. Cars don’t get repacked often if at all. I’ve never had or seen a problem as long as you’re inspecting the wheel bearings. There’s been a few times the nut needed a little tightening.
How are you judging if the nut is "tight"?

It is not supposed to be tight.
Bearings are designed to run at zero clearance.
This means that when cold, there should be a slight amount of play. This play goes away as the assembly heats up and expands under use.

One can measure this cold play with a dial caliper if you have one, or more commonly (and just as accurate) follow the specific manufacturer instructions for setting the bearings....This is often referred to as bearing preload, which is a misnomer, as the end result is no preload at all.



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JKJavelin

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Posted: 06/17/20 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just got an estimate from the local Goodyear dealer for $275 including seals. He is old school and honest. If they're Chinese bearings, I'll have him replace them with Timkens if they're available.
JK


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cummins2014

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Posted: 06/17/20 08:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Huntindog wrote:

guidry wrote:

I’m in the category of “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it”. I take off my wheels every year and make sure the nut is tight. They’re packed with good grease so I don’t repack. These trailers aren’t like my boat trailer where it’s submerged every day. I don’t think RVs need repacking every year or two. But that’s me. Cars don’t get repacked often if at all. I’ve never had or seen a problem as long as you’re inspecting the wheel bearings. There’s been a few times the nut needed a little tightening.
How are you judging if the nut is "tight"?

It is not supposed to be tight.
Bearings are designed to run at zero clearance.
This means that when cold, there should be a slight amount of play. This play goes away as the assembly heats up and expands under use.

One can measure this cold play with a dial caliper if you have one, or more commonly (and just as accurate) follow the specific manufacturer instructions for setting the bearings....This is often referred to as bearing preload, which is a misnomer, as the end result is no preload at all.



Never paid attention to all these technical terms I am hearing, but I have done my own bearings since my first trailer, early 70's. I have to go along with guidry on some of this, they certainly don't need to be packed every year, at least mine have not.

For me its a feel , I tighten up the nut a bit to make sure all is pushed in where it belongs, just snug, then I back it off to finger tight so to speak ,feel for any play . Then I hope where I like it the retainer clip or cotter pin will line up. If anyone can set preload, and have those line up" every" time, I need the secret. I have messed with them a lot of times , I usually go with a bit more loose then tight to get the retainer clip on or cotter pin in, if its not lining up where I like it. I have had the clip or cotter pin in , and I could move the nut by hand with the play those things have in them. IMO thats preload as far as I am concerned . There may be bearing applications where all that comes into play, but these trailers ,and preload is a guess as far as I am concerned . I use quality grease, and have never had a bearing failure.

Cummins12V98

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Posted: 06/17/20 09:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JKJavelin wrote:

I just got an estimate from the local Goodyear dealer for $275 including seals. He is old school and honest. If they're Chinese bearings, I'll have him replace them with Timkens if they're available.
JK


Timken's are available and US Made National or SKF seals are also.

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