Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Replacing Converter
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 > Replacing Converter

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pegsalt

gwinnett county

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Posted: 06/17/20 06:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello all- My first post and apologize for unsophisticated explanation.

I have troubleshot my 2004 Thor AClass Hurricane electrical problem to a defective Converter. It is located under the foot of the bed and difficult to access. Any suggestions on how to remove without destroying panels?

DrewE

Vermont

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Posted: 06/17/20 07:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It depends on how the bed is constructed, of course. In my motorhome, the bed consists of a sheet of particle board or something similar screwed down to the supporting frame, and accessing the systems underneath the bed is easiest by removing the bedding and mattress and unscrewing this sheet from the supporting structure. I think many other RVs have a basically similar design, though doubtless not all.





midnightsadie

ohio

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Posted: 06/17/20 07:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sit back and rethink how your going to do this ,might have to take something apart but look it over good ,theres a company that has easy replacement units ,can,t think of the name might be progressive some one chime in with the right company.

pegsalt

gwinnett county

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Posted: 06/17/20 07:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for thee info and advice. I'm trained electrically but reckless getting to things.

ndrorder

Southwest

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Posted: 06/17/20 08:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On many converters, it is possible to only replace the guts of the converter with either a compatible part from a different manufacturer or by transplanting the guts from a direct replacement.

If the new converter is completely different, let the demo begin.


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2011 Four Winds Chateau 23U

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 06/17/20 08:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

While you contemplate this get a battery charger on the battery so you are not replacing batteries too. Need at least 5 amps rated, 10+ is better.

Probably need to post a few pictures to get some ideas for digging the converter out.

http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=3


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bob213

Fresno, CA

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Posted: 06/17/20 09:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When ready to replace talk to Randy at http://www.bestconverter.com/. Hopefully you can just replace the converter portion and not have to mess with anything else. I'm guessing this is who midnightsadie was thinking of.


You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand


cavie

Port Charlotte Fl/ Hindsdale MA

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Posted: 06/18/20 02:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Before you change it. How did you trouble shoot it? Did you disconnect the 12 vote side and measure the output voltage? Did you check the 2 "Reverse Polairity" Fuses? Did you have 120 volts going in?


2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. Retired Building Inspector.

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midnightsadie

ohio

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Posted: 06/18/20 04:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

thanks thats the place bestconverter ,they,ll fix you up. slow going will be faster than just pulling wires,take pics, and mark each wire.

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 06/18/20 05:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When My Converter failed I put a Deltran Battery Tender (2/20/70 amp Wi-Fi or local control) to re-charge till I could get it replaced (it failed on a Sunday AM and on Tuesday AM I was parked in Tekonsha MI about 15 miles from Progressive Dynamics so I popped up to the factory for a Refurb)

If your converter is a stand alone (not part of the power panel) and you use flooded wet cells. Kind of hard to beat the Progressive Dynamics 9200 series.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


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