Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Bleeding(?) Propane Lines
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 > Bleeding(?) Propane Lines

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TinyDoug

New Mexico

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Posted: 07/26/20 04:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My propane tanks are at the front of my trailer. My electronic ignition propane water heater (Airxcel) is at the rear. The line connecting them is 30' of 1/2 inch iron pipe and a few feet of copper. It is a new install and the line is filled with air. Because it is electronic ignition, there is no pilot light button to depress to get air out. How do I bleed the line? Thanks!!

JaxDad

Greater Toronto Area

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Posted: 07/26/20 04:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Light a stove top burner and run it on high for a minute or two, that will get propane that far. After that just let the heater keep cycling, it won’t take long to purge the ir.

TinyDoug

New Mexico

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Posted: 07/26/20 04:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JaxDad wrote:

After that just let the heater keep cycling, it won’t take long to purge the ir.
Thanks. I started doing that but got worried that the igniter would somehow become damaged.

Golden_HVAC

Fairview OR, USA

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Posted: 07/26/20 04:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The igniter will not be damaged if it runs a few seconds at a time for days on end. Yes I would start my stove first, each time I wanted to start my refrigerator. My propane leak detector would shut off the propane each time I stored it. Without starting the burner first, it would take a few extra minutes to get the refrigerator running. And it might stop running after I went back into my house. With the stove running first, it never went out on me.

Fred.

TinyDoug

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Posted: 07/26/20 05:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks again JaxDad, and thanks Fred for the reassurance. Indeed, after only a few more minutes of failure to start, it kicked on and now I have hot water YAY!

Doug

Lwiddis

Lone Pine, CA

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Posted: 07/26/20 05:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My fridge is between the stove and water heater. So I do as Jax suggests then get the fridge going. WH lights fast.


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BarneyS

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Posted: 07/26/20 06:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 07/27/20 05:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I keep reading about the need to bleed the line.
Most waterheaters GOBBLE Propane when lit. One of the two big suckers (Furnace is the other one) They try THREE times to light then fault out and turn the failure light.

Usually the line is 100% purged by the end of the 1st attempt.
But if it's not, cycle the power switch and it will be on the 2nd try


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valhalla360

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Posted: 07/27/20 07:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also, the stove method makes sure you opened the correct tank...nothing worse than fiddling around with the fridge/hot water heater for half an hour only to go back and realize the system is set to draw from the tank that is closed.

With the stove method, there really isn't much to check on the stove. It either lights or it doesn't and you can hear the hiss of gas right away. So if it doesn't light, checking the tanks is the first place to look.


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wa8yxm

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Posted: 07/27/20 04:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

True on the stove method.
One thing I noticed
When my Rig was new I had a devil of a time getting the Water heater to work on Propane. Till I managed to warm it up. then it worked fine. Please do not ask why I never found out.

Finally it refused to work on propane at all. Sysmptoms suggested a new control board was in order. and it's worked 100% ever since.

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