2oldman
south
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gmckenzie wrote: Current fridge is 2 way, so I'm thinking the 12v wiring is pretty light. The owner's manual should recommend wiring size.
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theoldwizard1
SE MI
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FYI, based on some comments.
There IS such a thing as a compressor refrigerator. It uses a compressor that looks a lot like a standard refrigerator compressor.
The real question is, do you go 12VDC or 120VAC with a pure sine wave inverter ?
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goducks10
There
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Joined: 02/22/2010
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I went straight 12V vs 120V and an inverter. Why run the inverter if you don't have to. Yes you can run the 120V fridge on 120V elec hookup while camping. You can run the 12V fridge on 120V as well using the TT's converter.
If the inverter goes out you'll be out of a fridge if dry camping.
Also an inverter draws a small amount of power when running.
I looked at it like using the lights in the trailer. You can use them whether the TT's plugged in or not.
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jshupe
FT
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Why not convert your fridge using a JC Refrigeration kit? Only issue is you would have to buy it from the US and have it imported, and I don't know what that entails.
We just converted the Norcold in our truck camper and it works great.
![[image]](https://www.lifeenroute.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/IMG_2706-1024x768.jpeg)
We went with the 120V compressor for slightly faster cooling and because we had plenty of solar/battery to cover the inverter losses, but they make a 12V version. Seems to use 1.1-1.3kWh/day for an 8cu ft unit.
Edit - saw that you are looking to increase the size of your fridge. But this is still useful information for people looking at this thread, so I'll leave it.
Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.
* This post was
edited 01/17/21 12:43pm by an administrator/moderator *
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theoldwizard1
SE MI
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goducks10 wrote:I went straight 12V vs 120V and an inverter. Why run the inverter if you don't have to. Yes you can run the 120V fridge on 120V elec hookup while camping. You can run the 12V fridge on 120V as well using the TT's converter.
Anyone considering changing to a 120VAC refrigerator with a pure sine wave inverter, should consider getting an inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. It will make your life much easier !
Remove your old converter. Hook the DC distribution (fuse) panel directly to your battery bank. Connect the inverter/charger/transfer switch to the battery bank. All "shore power" (the external power cord) goes directly to the inverter/charger/transfer switch which then feeds all AC outlet in your RV.
You're done ! No switches to change when changing power !! "Top on the line" models have a separate input for your generator and an auto-start output.
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CaLBaR
Ontario, Canada
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theoldwizard1 wrote:goducks10 wrote:I went straight 12V vs 120V and an inverter. Why run the inverter if you don't have to. Yes you can run the 120V fridge on 120V elec hookup while camping. You can run the 12V fridge on 120V as well using the TT's converter.
Anyone considering changing to a 120VAC refrigerator with a pure sine wave inverter, should consider getting an inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. It will make your life much easier !
Remove your old converter. Hook the DC distribution (fuse) panel directly to your battery bank. Connect the inverter/charger/transfer switch to the battery bank. All "shore power" (the external power cord) goes directly to the inverter/charger/transfer switch which then feeds all AC outlet in your RV.
You're done ! No switches to change when changing power !! "Top on the line" models have a separate input for your generator and an auto-start output.
This is what I did when I added the inverter to run the small bar fridge in the outdoor kitchen while travelling. Can keep our food cold outside now and no need to go into the trailer at stops. Works great. Don't even need to think about it since it works automatically.
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noteven
Turtle Island
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Nova Kool Coquitlam BC Canada
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