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Dirtyrhoades77

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Posted: 03/05/21 05:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you for the detailed reply DrewE, it's exactly what I needed.

Thanks to everyone who replied. Definitely the generator and propane are imporant, I'm just trying to examine what is possible in this given scenario. I won't go boondocking without a generator or propane. Things just may get replaced, modified, or moved around a bit.

DrewE's suggestion to take some space from the inside may be the way to go. Nearly every model I've looked has the dinette there, it should be relatively uncomplicated to remove the dinette, cut and box out what it needs, as long as the mods stay below the cushion level of the dinette. Cut the dinette cabinet accordingly, and put it back.

As for tolerances, if I recall correctly the intake side needs 12". Given that I want the unit behind a closeable door, the exhaust will be set back maybe 2", 14" for the unit, then 12" intake clearance, makes a 28" deep box. Whichever compartment I mount it in will have an fully open bottom for air to move. I'd leave enough space on the sides to do the install and allow for vibration and flexing. Making it look normal from the outside will be more of a challenge.

In response to the solar panels adding heat, from what I've seen so far is that panels need sufficient airflow below them or they overheat and lose as much as 30% efficiency, so they should be mounted 2.5-3" above the deck for airflow. In that case, the air below the panels stays cooler, and the roof surface as well. With a lot of solar panels (1500-2000 watts), a significant percentage of the roof would be shielded from direct sun. That must help to some degree.

That said perhaps I should be considering a 12k unit, but I sure would like to know if 9k would do it, and somebody has to go first. I don't plan on hanging around any extremely hot environments (or cold for that matter), and I don't need it cooled below 75 degrees, so it won't be working too hard.

With a minimum of 1500w of solar, a 7200w lifepo4 battery, a mini split, a 24v amish hvac cooling upgrade on the fridge, an on-demand propane water heater, and an induction stove, the generator and propane loads should be much lower than usual.

I'm currently trying to clarify some details with a chinese company (royalstar) on some possible 24v Dc mini splits. It would be pretty great to keep that load off the inverter. Unfortunately there are spec discrepancies between their website, their catalog pdf, and a reseller's website. Not a good sign, but the idea is so tempting.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/05/21 10:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

One of the largest heat sources is the engine, transmission, and tailpipe system on a class C. After a day's drive the roof air takes quite a bit of time to cool the RV down.

I would jump right to a 48 volt battery bank.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

valhalla360

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Posted: 03/06/21 08:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:


I would jump right to a 48 volt battery bank.


Agreed, once you diverge from 12v may as well take good advantage of a higher voltage.

Also, keep in mind for the spacing, that the 12" manufacturer spec you mention is likely based on the condenser being completely outside with no other restrictions. If fresh cool air can only enter from a relatively small slot from below, it may not meet the needs. Talk to the manufacturer and explain exactly what you are doing.


Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV


Dirtyrhoades77

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Posted: 03/06/21 07:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:


I would jump right to a 48 volt battery bank.


Agreed, once you diverge from 12v may as well take good advantage of a higher voltage.

Also, keep in mind for the spacing, that the 12" manufacturer spec you mention is likely based on the condenser being completely outside with no other restrictions. If fresh cool air can only enter from a relatively small slot from below, it may not meet the needs. Talk to the manufacturer and explain exactly what you are doing.


Good point on the spacing. The opening would be the full 12" as the entire bottom would be open to the ground other than the two supports it would be sitting on, maybe unistrut, but maybe that's not enough. Surely any manufacturer would be against anything out of the norm so it's not worth the effort to explain it to them. There are guys on youtube that have done it to their Class As, and one manufacturer is even offering it as an option on a new model. Stuffed right into the compartment below. It's pretty cool.

As for 48v, I can see what you guys are saying, but if I go 48, I'll then have to get a 48 to 24 converter for the fridge, and that's another component, and it's $150.

My system probly won't ever go over 2000w, so I won't be outgrowing 24v, so I can't see any real advantage over 24.
Maybe 48v mini splits are easier to find at the moment? Are 48v alternators easier to find? What other advantages are there besides more headroom for expansion?

pianotuna

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Posted: 03/06/21 09:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dirtyrhoades77 wrote:


As for 48v, I can see what you guys are saying, but if I go 48, I'll then have to get a 48 to 24 converter for the fridge, and that's another component, and it's $150.

My system probly won't ever go over 2000w, so I won't be outgrowing 24v, so I can't see any real advantage over 24.
Maybe 48v mini splits are easier to find at the moment? Are 48v alternators easier to find? What other advantages are there besides more headroom for expansion?


A 24 volt inverter has to carry twice the current for the same output load as a 48 volt unit.

Your fridge is already 24 volt? That's a bit rare.

I've never seen a 24 volt mini split--but that probably means when I was searching for DC powered air conditioners that the 48 volt ones 'jumped up' first.

Dirtyrhoades77

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Posted: 03/07/21 08:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Dirtyrhoades77 wrote:


As for 48v, I can see what you guys are saying, but if I go 48, I'll then have to get a 48 to 24 converter for the fridge, and that's another component, and it's $150.

My system probly won't ever go over 2000w, so I won't be outgrowing 24v, so I can't see any real advantage over 24.
Maybe 48v mini splits are easier to find at the moment? Are 48v alternators easier to find? What other advantages are there besides more headroom for expansion?


A 24 volt inverter has to carry twice the current for the same output load as a 48 volt unit.

Your fridge is already 24 volt? That's a bit rare.

I've never seen a 24 volt mini split--but that probably means when I was searching for DC powered air conditioners that the 48 volt ones 'jumped up' first.


I don't have the 24v fridge yet, but jc-refrigeration.com sells replacement components for RV fridges. You pull it out, swap the components, and shove it back in. People seem to like them, and they have a 3y warranty, even up to 6 years. Best of all, no propane use and no inverter needed. I'm definitely doing that.

As for the DC minisplits, I think behind all the rebranding I think there are very few manufacturers actually producing 48v, and I've found only one so far for 24v, and I'm trying to clarify some of their info, as it's inconsistent.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/07/21 01:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ask what the wattage is for the fridge.

You would need a DC to dc charger 24 to 12 or 48 to 12. The fridge may be perfectly happy at nominal 12 volts.

jc-refrigeration.com used to make 12 volt electric cooling units--but I could not find them at the site now.

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