cac43
mo
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I stopped by a large tire store this am because at an overnight stop I noticed my outside right rear tire was 6 lbs low on pressure. according to my "spit" test the valve core was leaking. I didn't have anything to tighten it. the repair man said that the entire stem had to be replaced
and to do that he had to remove the tire. I reluctantly said ok if he was sure. he took off the lug nuts but the tire was stuck so he couldn't get it off. he proceeded to use a 10 lb sledge with a 4'
handle and began to pound the tire itself as hard as he could. after 20 times the tire was still stuck. so I told him to quit and just tighten the valve core and air it up.
I'm wondering how much damage to the tire and if this was an accepted procedure.
has any one else had this happen? thanks. chuck
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bgum
South Louisiana
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Next time just loosen the lug nuts a little and drive around the block.
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theoldwizard1
SE MI
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50 years ago I worked 8n a tire store. Occasionally we used a full sized delete (12lb) and got one of our biggest guys to take full "baseball bat" swing at the tire. As long as you are hitting the tire and not the rim you are okay.
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jdc1
Rescue, Ca
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I carry a valve stem cap that has the little piece t tighten them. They cost $1.
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Dutch_12078
Winters south, summers north
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Back in my truck shop days, our guys used a 4' pry bar to pop rusted on rims loose by prying between the duals after a liberal soaking with a rust buster like PB Blaster or Kroil.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
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2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
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Sagebrush
Jacksonville AL
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I let mine get rusty a few years ago on my truck, two guys at the tire shop used sledge hammers to beat them off hitting the tire with full air pressure, it took a while.
Pry bar worked some on the outside rims, they were stuck from the winter's road salt. I used oil out of my tool box to keep them from rusting up again, they didn't have anything to coat the axles. I rotated those tires early and painted everything that was bare metal.
I touch up the wheel paint every time I have them off now. Haven't had that issue since I started painting them during the tire rotation and brake jobs. You should inspect and clean the brakes at least annually or have it done. A shop may be willing to use anti-seize or brake grease, or you could provide a tube and ask them to coat the axle hubs so the wheels won't stick as bad.
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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OP, yup that’s what has to be done if you let your wheels rust on. Or driving around with wheel loose or penetrating oil and pry bar (on a dually)
That said, being able to tighten a valve stem core is something g that you should be able to do on the road.
Also if you absolutely need to replace a valve stem without removing the tire, get a Colby Valve to carry with you.
You can install them from the outside. Great temporary solution if you have a bad valve stem and no tire shop.
And a little grease or better yet anti sieze on the rim faces and lugs keeps this from happening virtually forever
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Grit dog
Black Diamond, WA
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PS, you still have 2 problems to fix. So don’t procrastinate
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larry cad
ohio
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There is a product called "Never Seez" that is a type of grease that you can paint onto wheel studs and you will never again have that problem. I use it all the time on wheels, and brake discs, and other stuff that gets exposed to water and might someday have to come off.
Doesn't solve your problem, but prevents it from happening again. Oh, and yes, use a sledge hammer.
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bobndot
USA
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Grit dog wrote:get a Colby Valve to carry with you.
I didn’t know about these ,
What size is used on our 16” wheels ?
Some are hand twist and some need a socket in one of two sizes. The company list says standard size and commercial , like farm equipment.
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