TechWriter

Part-Timing Again

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Joined: 12/22/2002

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What are folks using with their Class C?
I used an Air Force One system on my previous Class A diesel pusher, but I'm guessing that won't transfer to a C.
2004 - 2010 Part Timer (35’ 2004 National RV Sea Breeze 8341 gasser)
2010 - 2021 Full Timer (41’ 2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP)
2021 - ??? Part Timer (31’ 2001 National RV Sea View 8311 gasser)
www.rvSeniorMoments.com
DISH TV for RVs
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hpdrver

Mansfield, Texas

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Joined: 05/17/2007

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We use RVI Brake 2.
Texas Two Step
2021 Coach House 272XLFR
2020 JL Jeep Wrangler
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wildtoad

Blythewood, SC

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Joined: 06/05/2011

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On our Class A gasser we use NSA Ready Brake. Effective, very easy to install. Will work fine on Class C.
Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
2016 Newmar Baystar Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2dr HT
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YC 1

Yuba City Calif./ Auburndale Florida

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Joined: 01/11/2005

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Ready Brake or Ready Brute. Does not need power or air to operate
H/R Endeavor 2008
2013 Ford Edge toad
Full Timers
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MDKMDK

Free(er), for now, until the next "variant"

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Joined: 10/15/2008

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Blue Ox Patriot II.
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
2018 (2017 Sprinter Cab Chassis) Navion24V + 2016 Wrangler JKU (sold @ ????)
2016 Sunstar 26HE, V10, 3V, 6 Speed (sold @ 4600 miles)
2002 Roadtrek C190P (sold @ 315,000kms)
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harley-dave

ummm, where are we again..

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Joined: 10/19/2011

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We use a Demco Stay-in-Play Duo system Here on our toad.
Dave
2005 Winnebago-Itasca Sundancer 31C
2010 Harley-Davidson Soft tail Deluxe
2014 Harley-Davidson Street Glide Special
1999 Chevrolet Tracker 4X4
SKP # 121272
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Tinyandthegang

Mt. Shasta, Ca.

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Joined: 11/03/2007

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Demco Stay-in-Play
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ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

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Joined: 02/26/2007

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I never heard of supplemental braking for the motorhome.
If you are referring to supplemental braking for your tow vehicle, we have a Unified tow brake system by US Gear. It works effectively because of the system's vacuum pump that keeps the power brake booster charged. The pump goes on when touching the brake pedal and goes off after roughly 30 seconds of releasing the brake pedal.
It is installed into the tow vehicle in a "once and done" fashion.....I installed the system myself into our 2006 Jeep Liberty back in 2009. All we do is hook up the umbilical cord and the other normalities for towing and it's ready. We have had this system for 12 years now and it still works like new.
The controller for the system is mounted on the RV dash board to adjust it's sensitivity as conditions call for, while you tow.
One day we will eventually have to change tow vehicles. My plan would be to transfer the system to the new tow vehicle.
Here is the installation diagram for the system which looks challenging, but wasn't bad in reality.
![[image]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/qUQib-PdtxR0HGgB3r5Kuylakq91QARzTEYF5k54UsK84VrHHUHfq2mg2iXkr4Dok3qzVXTvx3728JjJqjgEyiQbWD5Slvo5mMkjfcoTSnjoH8srq_9K)
Here is the controller in our 2007 E350 chassis motorhome....#2 in the diagram.
![[image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/762/22047323699_d158cc6e33_z.jpg)
Braking force to the tow vehicle is consistent whether braking softly or braking abruptly with the motorhome. It takes some getting used to because during most braking conditions, you feel the tow vehicle slowing down the motorhome. It helps to keep the motorhome brakes cooler at the expense to the tow vehicle brakes. I consider that a "plus". Tow vehicle brakes are not worked so hard to overheat, but they do more than their share of slowing down the train, and it's brake pads and rotors are a lot cheaper to replace.
* This post was
edited 07/21/21 11:20am by ron.dittmer *
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
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