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MNRon

Tennessee

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Posted: 03/07/22 08:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Running high load 120v devices off of 12v batteries is not as easy as buying a large inverter. I have a Magnum3012RV and 630AHr of Lifeline AGMs. I *can* run an AC off of batteries, but it draws 140A from my batteries (besides startup). Drawing large currents like that heat up interconnects, and even the internal resistance of the Lifeline’s have a 0.5v drop at that current. Solar will replace capacity in the batteries, but at 12v you’re still drawing LARGE currents to run an AC; more than most would recommend for longer than short durations. Lots easier to run AC off of a 120v source, be it shore or genny.


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time2roll

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Posted: 03/07/22 08:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 1200 AH LFP and 2000w GoPower runs cool and easy at 140 amps. Solar would not keep up, so good for one night in transit to utility power.


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MNRon

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Posted: 03/07/22 09:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Time2roll - 1200AHr Li bank, NICE (and $$$). Li have lower internal resistance than my lifeline’s (which are lower than typical lead acids), but at 140A for a single AC it’s still a struggle (and LOTS of amps) to run an AC very long. My point is that high amperage loads are better served with 120v, it’s a lot easier on all the circuitry…and the wallet…

pianotuna

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Posted: 03/07/22 09:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 2009 flooded battery bank was 875 amp-hours. It was not bothered by running the roof air. My current bank is reconditioned telco batteries about 540 amp-hours. They are not bothered running the roof air.

My maximum draw is about 190 amps.

The solar is tiny by today's standards, so I use freecampsites.net when I need shore power (i.e. any time the air conditioner is needed).


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

laknox

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Posted: 03/08/22 10:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

laknox wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:

A generator carried on a rear rack needs substantial reenforcement.


Much simpler...and better to bolt a mount to the pin box. The pin box is very sturdy, so no worries about it falling off...unlike the typical rear trailer bumper.

If you can live with 1 Air/Con at a time, something in the 3000-4500w range is ideal.

If you are careful, the 4500w unit likely can accomodate 2 air/con units but you will need the right adapter and you have to limit the other stuff you run.

Yes, in theory you can use solar battery but by the time you build a system that can let you run air/con any reasonable amount of time, it's a whole lot cheaper and simpler just to get an appropriate generator and pay for the fuel.


My cousin and her husband did a bus conversion that's 98% electric. Propane is used for their tankless water heater and they have diesel heaters. They have 8 435W solar panels on the roof and a Nissan Leaf battery for the coach. You can see their build at www.beginningfromthismorning.com. Videos also on YT under the same name.

For anyone contemplating solar, check local companies selling used panels. Cousin used all used panels on their bus and they tested all panels with a meter before buying. All tested 430+ watts.

Lyle


So if you want to buy a system like that:
- 8 panels at 435w ~ $3000

PANELS WERE USED AND 3 YEARS AGO FOR ABOUT $2500. THEY DID ALL THE MODS THEMSELVES.

- Inverter capable of running everything ~ $1500

VICTRON INVERTER USED; I HAVE NO IDEA OF COST. WATCH THEIR VIDEOS. :-)

- Installation ~ $3000

FREE, AS THEY DID ALL WORK ON THE SOLAR, ELECTRICAL/DIGITAL WIRING, PLUMBING, TILING, INTERIOR (WHICH INCLUDED BUILDING ALMOST EVERYTHING), AND A LOT OF OTHER STUFF, THEMSELVES.

I can buy a generator and keep it maintained and fueled a lot cheaper than $12,500 (feel free to tweak the numbers but it's a big chunk of cash).

THEY ARE FULL-TIMING WITH THEIR 4 KIDS, SO THIS IS THEIR HOUSE, NOT AN RV. WORK SPACE FOR JUAN AND SCHOOL HOUSE FOR MICHELLE AND THE KIDS.

So your average RVer who isn't an electritian...you proved my point that it's technically possible but not practical.

MICHELLE USED ALL THE BUILDING AS EXERCISES IN MATH AND BASIC ENGINEERING AND DESIGN FOR THEIR SCHOOL WORK. THE 2 OLDERS LEARNED WELDING, BASIC MACHINE WORK, WOODWORKING, PAINTING, TILE INSTALLATION, PLUMBING, ELECTRICAL, ETC. THAT'S ON TOP OF ALL THE AUTOMATION THEY INSTALLED, AND THE KIDS HELPED WITH.

Also, that's just shy of 3.5kw of panels and can be expected to produce around 14KWH per day on average. Assuming the air/con pulls 1500w...assuming no other loads, you have around 9 hours of air/con in a 24hour period, so with a massive system, you still aren't independent of the grid/generator.

ACTUALLY, IF TEMPS AREN'T > 105F, THE 8 PANELS WILL MAINTAIN EVERYTHING AND STILL CHARGE THE BATTERY. EVEN DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, THEY'RE PUTTING NEARLY 2000 WATTS OUT. ONLY TIME THEY HAD ISSUES WAS DURING THEIR BUILD WHEN TEMPS WERE > 105F. JUAN ADDED 2 GROUND DEPLOYED PANELS TO KEEP UP. ALSO, ANY TIME THEY'RE ON SHORE POWER, THEY'RE CHARGING.


Lyle


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laknox

Arizona

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Posted: 03/08/22 11:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One thing to mention about my cousin's solar setup is that the Nissan Leaf battery was wired for 48 volts and the solar charges at 48 volts. Power is stepped down or up, from there. A =lot= more efficient. IIRC, Michelle had the older kids double-check all Dad's load calcs as part of their "homework". :-)

Lyle

* This post was edited 03/09/22 07:27am by laknox *

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