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Veebyes

Bermuda & Maryland Eastern Shore

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Posted: 10/10/21 07:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As multi month travellers, rather than weekend warriors or full timers, it is always good to be prepared for eventual failures which are sure to happen at the most inconvenient time.

It is good to have onboard two very useful but not overly expensive items. A battery load tester, which eliminates removing batteries & taking them to be tested somewhere, & a battery charger, which can be connected directly to the battery bank if there are converter/charger problems.


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DD716TED

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Posted: 10/11/21 02:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all of the responses.. Tested batteries..they were failing.. replaced with new batteries and all is well..
__________________

BFL13

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Posted: 10/11/21 03:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DD716TED wrote:

Thanks for all of the responses.. Tested batteries..they were failing.. replaced with new batteries and all is well..
__________________


All is not well unless you found the converter issue reported in the OP.

If the converter was working, the voltage would have stayed at 13.7ish the whole time, and you would not have noticed anything about the condition of the batteries.


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DD716TED

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Posted: 11/17/21 02:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I previously reported all was well BUT it is not. A recent camping trip
showed me problems again. New batteries seemed at first to help but that was incorrect.. Same thing started to happen again.. With nothing turned on, batteries connected and pedestal power applied, DC Voltage read 13.6 VDC. Then within 30 seconds of turning on
either the water pump or furnace, everything dimmed or slowed down..
I the disconnected batteries and again applied pedestal power to the trailer.. as long as nothing (pump or furnace) was on DC Voltage remained about 13.5 vdc.. The minute I turned on wither the pump or furnace, DC voltage dropped to 7.5vdc, overhead lights flashed on/off and furnace or water pump started rapid on/off cycling...
Given this, I now believe the WFCO WF-8955PEC has failed failed and needs a new power converter circuit assy. Am now searching for an exact fit / drop in replacement power converter circuit assembly at a reasonable cost.

CA Traveler

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Posted: 11/17/21 04:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A new charger does not have to be in the same location, but your choice. A good charger will ramp up a discharged battery to 14.6V at maximum amps known as bulk mode , It will hold 14.6V as the amps begin to taper knows as absorb mode then both amps begin to taper down to 13.6V which is float mode, this mode begins at about 85% SOC and can take many hours to reach 100% SOC.

If you have or can borrow a decent auto battery charger you observe the above.

Another important aspect is the distance and size of the wire from the charger and unfortunately wiring is to often inadquate so consider checking.


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dieseltruckdriver

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Posted: 11/17/21 06:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DD716TED wrote:

I previously reported all was well BUT it is not. A recent camping trip
showed me problems again. New batteries seemed at first to help but that was incorrect.. Same thing started to happen again.. With nothing turned on, batteries connected and pedestal power applied, DC Voltage read 13.6 VDC. Then within 30 seconds of turning on
either the water pump or furnace, everything dimmed or slowed down..
I the disconnected batteries and again applied pedestal power to the trailer.. as long as nothing (pump or furnace) was on DC Voltage remained about 13.5 vdc.. The minute I turned on wither the pump or furnace, DC voltage dropped to 7.5vdc, overhead lights flashed on/off and furnace or water pump started rapid on/off cycling...
Given this, I now believe the WFCO WF-8955PEC has failed failed and needs a new power converter circuit assy. Am now searching for an exact fit / drop in replacement power converter circuit assembly at a reasonable cost.
While it sucks you are having problems, just get a battery charger and hook it up to your batteries. That is basically what a converter is anyway. That will buy you time until you get a replacement for the WFCO. I would recommend a Progressive Dynamics.

Edit: Also, turn your fridge to AC power.


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BFL13

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Posted: 11/17/21 07:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

DD716TED wrote:

Thanks for all of the responses.. Tested batteries..they were failing.. replaced with new batteries and all is well..
__________________


All is not well unless you found the converter issue reported in the OP.

If the converter was working, the voltage would have stayed at 13.7ish the whole time, and you would not have noticed anything about
the condition of the batteries.


I guess you missed this at the time?

I like the PowerMax LK adjustable voltage models.

DD716TED

Washington State

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Posted: 11/22/21 02:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bottom line, WFCO 8955PEC MBA was bad.. I ordered a replacement (not WFCO) from Randy at BEST CONVERTER.. Since the trailer is stored out of the area, I want to make sure that I take with me everything needed to do the changeout. Looks really simple but have one question for anybody that has done it and I can't look for myself. The Black AC wire that comes from the MBA connects to the main breaker along with another black lead combined using a pin terminal under the same breaker lug screw. QUESTION..WHAT TYPE OF PIN TERMINAL will I need to have with me? As said before, I would look for myself, but the trailer is miles away for now..
Thank in advance for any information.

BFL13

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Posted: 11/22/21 05:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Had to look up "pin terminal" got:

https://www.airic-terminal.com/products_........EwJSt9AIVrSGtBh2qIglbEAAYASAAEgKuvPD_BwE

You can just put the two wires into the bottom of the breaker without joining the wires first, if I have the correct thing in mind. The pin terminal idea is ok too.

I think you have the converter and another circuit using the same breaker (not the Main breaker though). I had that with the Parallax 7355 in the 5er we had.

The problem there was to be able to still run the 120v outlets via inverter with the converter shut off, so I was playing with that. Answer was to put a switch in the converter's black wire before it got to the bottom of the breaker. That way, I could leave the breaker on to run the 120v outlets and shut off the converter with the inserted switch.

If you got the Boondocker MBA version, AFAIK once installed you can't get at the adjustable voltage setting screw, but not totally sure about that. Last I heard, you needed the deck mount under there turned so you can get at the two holes in its side. The deck mount has a plug to go in a 120v outlet (ISTR Randy does a hard wired version though)

* This post was edited 11/22/21 05:08pm by BFL13 *

wa8yxm

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Posted: 11/22/21 05:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Suspect list.. First you mentioned the fridge was NOT ON GAS. What was it one. Fridge on 12 volts draws around 20 amps or more. On AC it draws or gas only a few amps DC.

Furnace draws major power for the blower.

Suspect list in no particular order
Batteries, Converter, Dirty connections, Bad cable.

I've had 'em all. .


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