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 > Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

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2112

Texas

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Posted: 01/04/22 07:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is this a model C46540?

* This post was edited 01/04/22 07:51pm by 2112 *


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CA Traveler

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Posted: 01/04/22 08:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

I better clarify that the twist lock is 120/240 four wire. 14.6 amps total, indicating it would be somewhere around 7 amps per 120 leg.
3500/240=14.6A. 14.6A on each hot leg is inadequate for the typical MW. Switch to the other plug as suggested.

* This post was edited 01/05/22 07:32am by CA Traveler *


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tonyclifton

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Posted: 01/04/22 08:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, tho is a C46540. I went back and corrected my original post. Thanks for catching that!

I am using the 4-prong connector and apparently was not sufficiently aware of the specs! The diagram in the manual identifies it as a L14-30R.

I was not aware that the AVR was only on one phase.

I have a kill-a-watt. Low load voltage was 129v. Seems high. One circuit (with the coffee maker) only dropped somewhere between 120 - 125v when I made coffee. The other leg with the microwave dropped to 96v (coffee maker was not running). Is this related to the AVR only functioning on one phase? That leg really drops and has no other major draws on it.

My goal; is to power both legs of the building circuit, although selectively powering certain breakers to manage load. I turn off high draw circuits like heat pump, water heater, sewage pump, range. What type of generator output / receptacle will do this as I shop for a replacement generator? I know this unit is getting old although has been a rock solid runner ever since I bought it based upon extensive reviews here.

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enblethen

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Posted: 01/04/22 08:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What are you powering or trying to? Your language indecates that you are trying to power a building.
If it is for a building and don't need an inverter style, a 10,000 plus watt construction style genset.
Hopefully you are not trying to back feed a utility powered sytem!


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time2roll

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Posted: 01/04/22 08:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1300w cooking power or input power?


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Gdetrailer

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Posted: 01/04/22 08:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tonyclifton wrote:

Yes, tho is a C46540. I went back and corrected my original post. Thanks for catching that!

I am using the 4-prong connector and apparently was not sufficiently aware of the specs! The diagram in the manual identifies it as a L14-30R.

I was not aware that the AVR was only on one phase.

I have a kill-a-watt. Low load voltage was 129v. Seems high. One circuit (with the coffee maker) only dropped somewhere between 120 - 125v when I made coffee. The other leg with the microwave dropped to 96v (coffee maker was not running). Is this related to the AVR only functioning on one phase? That leg really drops and has no other major draws on it.

My goal; is to power both legs of the building circuit, although selectively powering certain breakers to manage load. I turn off high draw circuits like heat pump, water heater, sewage pump, range. What type of generator output / receptacle will do this as I shop for a replacement generator? I know this unit is getting old although has been a rock solid runner ever since I bought it based upon extensive reviews here.

Love this site and it’s well informed users!


[image]

You cannot do what you are wanting to do with that gen, it only delivers a max surge of 2Kw or 1750W (14.58A)continuous per each 120V leg using the 4 wire 120/240V connector.

Your 1300W microwave will have a startup surge above 1750W, I have a 1250W microwave and it easily draws 16A or 1920W at 120V But it is an inverter microwave which does not have as high of a startup surge that the non inverter MWs have.

If you flip it to combine both 120V windings then you should be able to power the microwave through the 3 wire RV outlet but now you will no longer have 120/240V..

Although I am puzzled why the gen shuts down, it should be popping the breaker on the gen.

For what you want to do, a 6,500W gen would be a much better match..

tonyclifton

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Posted: 01/04/22 09:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It was mentioned the 3 wire RV outlet could power both 120v legs with an adapter. What is this adapter? Sounds like this will provide more wattage.

My microwave is an inverter style, or at least says so on the front. I’ll lug it out to the 46540 tomorrow and hook up to the RV outlet (i have a pigtail to 2 120v outlets in a box) and see if it has same issues. I suspect it will run better.

CA Traveler

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Posted: 01/04/22 09:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tonyclifton wrote:

My goal; is to power both legs of the building circuit
Given that and if the building is on utility power you are asking totally irrelevant questions.

Connecting to utility fed power without proper isolation equipment from utility power and generator can cause harm to others and very significant legal problems for you. From your questions you should not attempt this.

pianotuna

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Posted: 01/05/22 12:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Go and buy a Preditor 3500 inverter/generator. It comes with electric start.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

2112

Texas

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Posted: 01/05/22 03:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You should have 4 wires running from your generator to your panel. I'm going to guess at the colors, L1-black, L2-red, neutral-white, ground-bare. The AVR regulates L1. My guess if your microwave is on L2.

Swap the red and black wires at the panel. This will put the microwave on L1. The problem is this will move other loads, maybe the coffee pot to L2. The coffee pot is a lower resistive load so it should have less affect on L2.

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